solder – SolderSmoke Daily News

SolderBaloney and SolderTruth

This is so nuts that it actually had me checking to see if this was possibly an April 1 joke. But alas, it was put out on March 30 and is apparently quite serious. Rogier PA1ZZ sent me this. I think his reaction was the same as mine. My message to Rogier:

Ha! He misses the key point: HOW MANY OXYGEN MOLECULES ARE IN THE SOLDER? Here at the SolderSmoke Laboratories we only use oxygen-free solder. And wire. Sounds MUCH better. Just kidding. I think this is audio-fool hogwash. I’m sure my friend Ron WA6YOU (a real solder expert) will agree. How dare this guy in the video besmirch the name of good ole 60/40 Kester! And even at the local high school, Dean and I were pleased to find that all the students and their teacher had already REJECTED lead-free solder. Also, this guy seems to think that the lead has been replaced by silver. Dude, that would be some expensive solder! His explanation of rosin is, I think, kind of shaky. Thanks for sharing Rogier. 73 Bill

Next I suppose we’ll have recommendations on how different solder mixes can produce different audio effects: “For a more mellow sound, go with 60/38 and 2 percent copper!”

I immediately sent this to my friend Ron WA6YOU, a noted expert on this subject:

Ron’s response:

OMG!!!!! I don’t know where to start and I haven’t even had breakfast yet. First off Sn60/Pb40 contains NO silver and melts at 361 F and yes I do have my irons in class set to 800 F. Today in my classes I use Sn63/Pb37 since it is Eclectic….it is either solid or liquid and no in between. For the cables I build for the satelittes (center pin of SMA male connectors), I use KESTOR Sn62/Pb36/Ag02 which is only 2% silver and called silver bearing. You can still buy it on Amazon. As for flux, I use Kester RMA186 liquid and contrary to Paul, it does not “make the solder melt”….it basically de-oxidizes and provides a path for the solder to flow. The flux inside the solder melts at 347 F…..BEFORE the solder melts at 361 F thus making the path for flow. Remember when we were kids and had the little round can of Kester flux that you would dip into?

FYI: To solder the pin of an SMA connector I do NOT rely on the flux inside the solder….Prior to inserting the center conductor of the RG-316/DS (mil-spec double shield teflon) I apply a “dropllet” of RMA186 on the 7 stranded wire tip and insert it into the pin…..next I apply another “droplet” into the inspection hole (not called a solder hole). Then I put a droplet of silver bearing solder on the PIN TIP of my iron and apply it directly to the hole in the pin…..magnification is definitely needed. The solder flows into the hole and I tell my students that if you don’t see an outline of the inspection hole, then you used too much solder and the pin will not insert into the into the body of the SMA. I can make 6 to 8 cables an hour and all are within 1 (ONE!!!) MM tolerance in lengths. If they want a cable 138 mm long from connector front to front, then it can’t be 137 or 139 mm…..yep I can do that and I would love to show you all sometime. And yes I crimp the ferrule. I have 8 birds in space and the last three have 80 cables each of mine made in my basement.

I am just waiting for the day when some USG safety officer comes into my class and has me surrender all “lead solder” and have to replace it with SAC305. See my handouts below from my lesson plan. Let me demo this for you all sometime. It is said that I can put a Type-N male connector on a garden hose……HI HI.

Thanks for the link and remember…..The US is one of the few countries still using lead. Hoard your lead solder…..the day is coming.

73 de Ron, WA6YOU

Solder and flux in use at N2CQR

By Jeff Murray K1NSS (2014)

Surface-Mount Solder Smoke — Is THIS Really Homebrew?

I was recently noting that the assembly of IC, CPU-based projects doesn’t seem like real homebrew radio. I realize that there is a danger here — there is a tendency in ham radio to reject the new and to stick with the old. “SPARK FOREVER” was the rallying cry when CW came along. There are still a lot of AMers who refer to SSB as “Single Slop Bucket.” So, with that in mind I point the blog to the above video. He is using complicated ICs that probably have thousands if not millions of transistors. But he is definitely making something new. And he releases some real solder smoke in the process. FB.

It is probably not for me, but others may like it. Like the old song says “Different strokes for different folks.” YMMV.

Soldering School — 1958 (Video)

I went to a similar course at Ft. Gordon Ga. in 1977. But I think my instructors would pass out if they saw the way I REALLY solder in the shack today. But hey, I am building SSB transceivers, not spacecraft. If one of my joints is bad (they rarely are), I can fix it. So chill out Mr. Instructor — if we were to do every connection your way it would take us a lot longer to build a rig.

Why Does Solder Smoke Always Go Right Into Your Face? Now We Know

Because our podcast and blog is called SolderSmoke, I felt compelled to post about this video in which a fellow does some pretty interesting research into how solder smoke actually moves. We don’t often see this much concern about the behavior of our beloved smoke.

Thanks to Todd K7TFC for alerting us to this.

I use a small fan to disturb the airflow pattern.

Great Video on PC Board Techniques, with a Focus on Surface Mount

Wow, lots of wisdom in this video from Leo Fernekes. Great hints and kinks on prototyping with copper clad boards. I need a Dremel just so that I can make Leo’s board cutter. And I can see that I need some of that liquid flux and isopropyl alcohol. Surf boards and headers! Who knew? Teflon coating for the wires — gotta get it. Glad to see that Leo is also a fan of copper tape.

His emphasis on the importance of stage-by-stage construction and testing is right on the mark.

My only disagreement with Leo is about his use of steel wool. I’ve found that steel wool will inevitably cause little tiny “Murphy Whiskers” to float around your workbench. They will eventually settle onto the most inconvenient and damaging place on your board. So I have banished steel wool from my workshop. Those green, non-metallic Scotch Brite pads work just as well and don’t cause shorts.

Three cheers for Leo. He is based in Thailand. He has an interesting background and some really amazing projects and insights:

http://www.luminati.aero/leofernekes

http://www.fernekes.com/blog/

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCe1bjEcBichpiAMhExh0NiQ/videos

Thanks to Tore LB4RG for alerting us to Leo’s video.

Alan Re-Caps His Drake 2-B

That Drake 2-B is a beautiful thing. Every time I look at an older tube rig I’m reminded of the three dimensionality of these old machines. Solid-state rigs are in Flatland, but tube rigs are in three dimensions.

Alan makes a very cool use of the I-pad in this repair. And I’m jealous of his Hayseed Hamfest Electrolytic (I opted for the multiple caps hanging below the chassis). Excellent management of the solder-sucker by Alan. And I was impressed by the disciplined way he pulls solder from the reel — he has the reel right next tot he rig and dispenses it directly. I tend to hack off small lengths of solder and end up with lots of little bits of solder on the bench.

Glad to hear that the other caps on the Drake are standing the test of time. I wish the same could be said for all the caps in my Heath HW-101.

One thing caught my eye in Alan’s video: The dial cord. You know you have become a true 2-B aficionado when you have actually gotten good at replacing the dial cord. It is something of a rite of passage. Perhaps this will serve as the basis for a future video by W2AEW,

Thanks Alan! And congrats on passing 4 MILLION YouTube views. People watch because your videos are so good.

Our book: “SolderSmoke — Global Adventures in Wireless Electronics” http://soldersmoke.com/book.htm Our coffee mugs, T-Shirts, bumper stickers: http://www.cafepress.com/SolderSmoke Our Book Store: http://astore.amazon.com/contracross-20

A De-Soldering Primer By Wayne Burdick

A De-Soldering Primer

Wayne Burdick, N6KR

Removing resistors and other parts from double-sided boards is easy and

fun. After years of careful analysis of my own technique I have documented

the process. I start with technique #1, below; if that doesn’t work, I try

#2, etc. Good luck!

1. Turn the board over. With one hand behind your back, a wry smile, and

the confidence of a pet surgeon, simply heat the lead in question and

listen for the pleasant sound of the component hitting the work bench.

2. Well, that *would* be too easy, wouldn’t it. Staying with the solder

side for now, locate a large solder sucker (the larger the better; it

should frighten smaller pets when brandished). Heat each joint and deftly

suck out the solder with a single satisfying Thwop! Listen for the part

hitting the bench.

3. Didn’t fall out, eh? No problem: rummage in that tool bin for a shiny

new roll of solder wick. Crack open a beer, too, and take a generous swig.

Wedge that wick in between the lead and pad, heat until you see the solder

flow nicely onto the wick, and pull it out of the way just in time to see a

beatiful, black annular ring around your component lead. Nudge each lead

with your iron and keep your fingers crossed.

4. OK, so you’ve got a tough customer: small lead, hole just barely

larger, and a bit of off-color solder that can’t be bothered with any of

the usual techniques. Have another sip of that brew. Vigorously flip the

board back to the component side. Now grip the lead professionally with

your most elegant long-nose pliers and hold on tight. Give it a playful

yank, then pray. Should pop right out.

5. Damn. Finish the beer and get out your brutal, 8″ electrician’s

long-nose. Grab the component with gusto this time, buster, then tip the

board up at a 45. Turn up your soldering station to max and heat that baby

up on the backside. Pull down hard with the pliers.

6. No go? Hmmmm — let’s get serious. Put the board up directly on its

edge and hold it in place vertically with your chin. Since your iron is

suspect by this time, test it for several seconds on the nearest exposed

skin. (Doing it by accident is just as effective.) Heat the joint with

*feeling* this time. Lunge and parry. Don’t worry about the pad, traces,

or other parts–this is war! With maximal chin pressure exerted to hold

the offending board in place, pull the lead out, out, Out!

7. OK, so you “…couldn’t get hold of it…,” blah blah blah. Fool!

You must risk everthing at this stage. Insert a small screwdriver under

the part, and white-knuckle that soldering iron on the obverse. Pry and

heat until it pops. (Note: It is important to keep in mind the concept of

“kick-back” should you succeed at this. PC boards are likely to

wobble, flop, slip, then fling out of your grasp once the offending little

monster finally lets go, taking test leads and soldering station with it.)

8. So, what kind of inept dweeb are you, anyway? Give up! Clip the part.

Leave some lead to grab onto and repeat #6 and 7. If your face has turned

red it is best to shield the work from veiw with your body, then steal a

quick look behind you to be sure noone is suppressing a giggle as they

watch this humiliating display.

9A. The lead came out but you STILL have some solder left in the hole?

Gads. Find another part that you can sacrifice. Press its helpless

lead into the depressingly small pit you made in the center of the pad.

Heat the base of the lead until you achieve Punch-Through. Yank and Heat,

Yank and Heat. Evetually the solder will give up in disgust and the

sacrificial component lead will slide smoothly, signalling victory.

9B. To your left is a hand drill; to your right is a #60 bit. You know

what you must do.

10. Now—you brute!— now that you’ve overheated the pad, broken the trace,

cracked the component, gouged the board, pitted the tip, blistered the

skin, wasted a beer, and irrefutably proven once and for all that you

should have taken up gardening instead, NOW maybe you’ll learn the color

code!

😉

N6KR

Thanks Wayne! Been there! Done ALL that! This brought to mind the time I soldered in a 16 pin logic chip on a double sided board… UPSIDE DOWN. TRIBAL KNOWLEDGE MY FRIENDS.

Soldering in SPAAAAACE!

Take a look at this NASA page on zero gravity soldering. Just look at that rosin go!

http://science.nasa.gov/science-news/science-at-nasa/2004/16aug_solder/

Has your solder EXPIRED?

Wow, here’s another thing to worry about: Has your solder expired? Is it past its “use by” date?

This came up in the discussion of the Heathkit voltmeter being built on the Evil Mad Scientist blog (see our post on this from a few days ago). One commenter wrote:

If you ever look at a spool of solder– one made for use in industry –it will have an expiration date. And that date always seems surprisingly soon, to us.

Here in Silicon Valley, we regularly purchase solder (including flux-cored 60/40) that is discounted because it is sold after its stamped expiration date– sometimes as much as five years past. To us, this is just “a good deal.” We’ve had some spools work better than others, and it would be very hard for us to *prove* that one is “bad” because it’s old.

None the less, the solder manufacturers are explicitly clear on the subject.

Kester, one of the most important manufacturers, says “Flux cored solder wire has a limited shelf life determined by the alloy used in the wire. For alloys containing more than 70% lead, the shelf life is two years from date of manufacture. Other alloys have a shelf life of three years from date of manufacture.”

Source: http://www.kester.com/Portals/0/Knowledge_Base_Articles/Shelf_Life_Policy.pdf

Alpha, the manufacturer of the solder included with this kit, says of (at least one of their) flux-cored solders, “If >36 months from manufacture, please submit sample to Cookson Electronics Assembly Materials for testing.”

Source: http://alphacpmd.com/~/media/Files/CooksonElectronics/TB-RELIACORE15-WRC-USAPE-SM334-9%20%2010-09-28.pdf

What happens when it expires? Does the smoke start to smell bad? Steve Smith — please help us out here.