Category: BITX40Module

Using the RF Power Amplifier of the BITX40 Module

PA shematic from the BITX 40 Module
Click on the diagram for a better view
C.F. Rockey W9SCH (who alerted us in SPRAT 22 to the chicken sacrifice option) spoke of transistors that exhibit “quantum mechanical necromancy.” Rockey explained that when this happens, “The transistor simply turns up its toes and dies. Not even an Atomic Physicist can tell you why!”

This often (very often!) happens with homebrew power amplifiers. So when we find a good one, many of us stick with it, using the same power amp circuit in rig after rig. I have done this with the power amplifier from the BITX40 Module.
Mythbuster (75 & 20 Meter) version (early)
Click on image for a better view.
https://soldersmoke.blogspot.com/2021/08/mythbuster-video-13-rf-power-amplifier.html

Same amplifier built into Version 2 of the 15-10 Transceiver
Click on image for a better view.
In the build for the 15-10 transceiver you can see some changes. I used an RD06HHF1 instead of an IRF-510. I used an 8.1 volt zener diode instead of the regulator chip. I set the bias at around 5.5 volts DC on the gate of the RD06. I used a smaller, metal can driver transistor (it works fine). I changed the input/output physical configuration between the pre-driver and the driver stages (I think it was kind of goofy the way I had it in the Mythbuster). Finally, you can see how I used a small piece of copper tape (with conductive adhesive) to shield the line going from the driver transformer to the gate of the RD06. The wire was too small to use a bit of shielded coax, but I think the copper tape and the copper clad board beneath it work just as well.

Farhan provided me with some fascinating background on this circuit:

Bill,


I just saw your post on the bitx40 power amp. The credit must go to Wes for this, it is from the Lichen transceiver described in 6.9 of the EMRFD. I merely copied it with some modifications for it to work with junkbox components.

It bears mentioning that at that time I didn’t have a way of generating two tone signal or measuring the IMDR. Those came later when I built my own spectrum analyzer based on Wes and Terry White’s spectrum analyzer. It was sheer luck that I picked this power chain that already had careful gain distribution.

For the output, the original build used and LPF with inductors wound on a ballpen shell and TV baluns cores instead of toroids. Again, it was incredibly lucky that they worked at all.


– f

My Hodgepodged Morse: Audio Tone into the Mic Jack Creates J2A not A1A. BASTA!


In SolderSmoke podcast #229 Pete and I were discussing my rather flaky effort to turn the Hodgepodge BITX40 Module into a CW rig by injecting keyed 700 Hz audio into the mic jack (see video below). We got some very helpful responses from ND6T and VK2EMU:


Hi Bill,

You mentioned generating CW by modulating SSB: Collins did that in their
first SSB transceivers, I believe, as did SGC, but the results were less
than optimal. The problem is that you are involving the audio chain and
modulator. You know from experience how difficult it is to maintain low
intermod there and the tone is no exception. So we end up with lots of
spurs within the filter passband and then also have the opposite
sideband suppression less than perfect. If you check your transmitted
signal with a spectrum analyzer or SDR you can easily see the nasties.
Listening to a CW signal thus generated makes it obvious unless it is
buried way down in the noise. It IS a valid CW signal (not MCW) since it
is (almost) a single signal. However, in actual operation it doesn’t
work very well.

I know because I have done that. I bought one of Farhan’s original
BITX40 boards and wanted to put it on CW. I ended up injecting a keyed
signal from one of the spare clocks on the Si5351 into the RF amplifier
chain (thus avoiding the above stated problems) but still had garbage
from the audio and IF stages. I fixed that by shorting out that signal
during transmit by a transistor to ground. That was documented on your
BITXhacks website: http://bitxhacks.blogspot.com/2017/02/ and on my
website: http://www.nd6t.com/bitx/CW.htm . It has been a while, eh?

…

Don, ND6T

————————————————–

Hi Bill and Pete,


With putting an audio oscillator into you hodgepodge radio, your transmission is not the same as a standard CW rig.


If we have a transmitter as described in the ARRL handbooks from the 1940’s or 1950’s, (or even the Michigan Mighty Mite) it is a crystal oscillator and maybe a PA tube. By keying either the oscillator and/or the final PA on and off, then we can send Morse code as ICW Interrupted Continues Wave. If we check the list of emission designators, we have A1A.


However, if we feed a tone into a SSB transmitter, then we have J2A.


At the other end it may sound the same, but because it is created in a different way, it has a different designation.


A quick look at Part 97 shows that J2A and J2B are classed as CW, so you are in the clear. However, if you put a tone oscillator into an AM signal to send CW, then that would be classed as A2A and not classed as CW, but as MCW. MCW can be used on 6 meters and above, but not HF.


SITS.


73 de Peter VK2EMU

———————————————————–


So I say BASTA with the J2A! If I want to go CW, it’s all A1A for me. I dusted off my Fish Soup 10 and am now back on 40 CW with 200 mW…. A1A all the way!

Hodgepodge: Moving the Carrier Oscillator Frequency (and a Flashback to 2002) (Video)

As explained in the video, in the course of using my RTL-SDR dongle I noticed that the signal being put out by my Hodgepodge rig had some problems. There was poor opposite sideband rejection, and in terms of audio quality I has putting out too many lows and too few highs. I figured the problem was the result of the carrier oscillator frequency being a bit too low, a bit too close to the flat portion of the crystal filter passband. I needed to move that carrier oscillator frequency up a bit.
BITX40 Module BFO
In the actual BITX40 Modules, L5 was replaced by just a jumper wire, and the C103 trimmer was not on the board. Farhan and his team instead selected X5 crystals to match the passband of the 12 MHz crystal filter. Mine was originally at 11.998653 MHz. But I wanted to tweak mine a bit — I wanted to move it up about 500 Hz. Reducing the capacitance would move the frequency up. Putting capacitance in series with C102 would have the effect of reducing the capacitance in the circuit. I just removed the jumper wire and used the holes for L5. First I put in a single 30pf capacitor. This dropped the capacitance between X5 and ground to 18 pf. That resulted in too large a shift. So I added another 30 pf cap in parallel with the first one. This resulted in a total capacitance from X5 to ground of 26 pf. This was about right — the carrier oscillator/BFO frequency was now 11.9991 Mhz. I had moved the carrier oscillator frequency up by 447 Hz — just about what I was hoping for.

This was a very satisfying fix. it was a chance to put to use experience with other SSB rigs, to make use of the RTL-SDR dongle as a diagnostic tool, and to tinker with the BITX40 Module in the way that Farhan had intended for it to be tinkered with.

I’d done this kind of adjustment before, but without the benefit of an SDR display. Below is the story of one such adjustment.

———————————

A Flashback to 2001-2002
(From my book “SolderSmoke — Global Adventures in Wireless Electronics”)

Now it was time for some debugging and fine tuning. I needed to make sure that the frequency of the carrier oscillator was in the right spot relative to the passband of the crystal filter. If it was set too high, the filter would be chopping off high notes in my voice that were needed for communications clarity, and it would allow too much of what remained of the carrier (residuals from the balance modulator) through. If it was set too low, the voice signal transmitted would be lacking needed base notes. I didn’t have the test gear needed to perform this adjustment properly, but my friend Rolf, SM4FQW, up in Sweden came to my aid.

One night, during a conversation with Rolf, I explained my problem and he offered to help me make the adjustments… by ear. Performing an electronic version of open-heart surgery, with power on and Rolf on frequency, I opened the case of the new transmitter. The carrier oscillator has a small capacitor that allows the frequency of the crystal to be moved slightly. With Rolf listening carefully, I would take my screwdriver and give that little capacitor a quarter turn to the right. “Better or worse?” I would ask.

I think this little adjustment session captures much of the allure of ham radio. There I was, out in the North Atlantic, late at night hunched over a transmitter that had been forged from old Swans and Heathkits, from cell phone chips, and from bits of design from distant members of the fraternity of solder smoke. Pericles, the source of many of the key parts, was gone. So was Frank Lee, the amateur whose SPRAT article had inspired the project. But Rolf and I carried on with the core tradition of the radio fraternity: hams help their fellow hams overcome technical difficulties.

Over the Waterfall into the Dark Side: Hodgepodge SDR

This one’s for Pete. My effort to add features and modes to my Hodgepodge transceiver took a dramatic turn when I connected the rig to my computer via an RTL-SDR dongle. Woohoo! A Hodgepodge waterfall! Check it out.
The dongle was modified for direct sampling at HF. In the box with the dongle I have one amplifier stage, consisting of a 40673 dual gate MOSFET and one parallel tuned circuit, now tuned to the Hodgepodge IF of 11.998 MHz. I tap the the Hodgepodge’s BITX40Module at the output of the first mixer, just before the crystal filter. This was a lot of fun. I can even check my own signal on transmit! This is like having the best of both worlds.

A Problem with the San Jian PLJ6-LED Counter

I had hoped to use this handy and cheap little frequency counter to add some glowing Juliano Blue to the frequency readout on my Quarantine Hodgepodge rig. I’ve used these boards with my BITX20, my HA-600A, and with my DX-100/HQ-100 rigs. But guess what — these boards do not work with the BITX40 module board that is the heart of the Quarantine Hodgepodge. And the reason why is interesting.

Here is what happens: First, you plug in the IF frequency of your rig. In my case 12 MHz. You connect your VFO output to the signal input on the PLJ6. You power up the PLJ6. You then have to select one of two IF frequency options. One of these options ADDS your IF frequency to whatever it detects at the signal input. In my case, for a 7.2 MHz signal it would detect a VFO signal at 4.8 MHz. If it were to ADD this signal to the IF freq, it would readout 16.8 MHz. And it does. But obviously that is wrong. So you go to the other option — this one SUBTRACTS the designated IF frequency FROM whatever it finds at the signal input. So here we get 4.8 – 12 = -7.2 Almost perfect right? But here is the problem: The PLJ6 can’t handle negative numbers! So it displays 000000. Not helpful.

Here is the manual:
https://www.mpja.com/download/35057tebasic%20manual.pdf

I didn’t have this trouble with any of the other rigs because none of them required the use of negative numbers. My BITX 20 for example had an IF of 11 MHz and has the VFO running a bit above 3 MHz — so the PLJ6 just adds the IF to the VFO signal and Bob is my uncle. Similar problem-free addition takes place with the other rigs.

I found some discussion on this problem on the internet. Here is one:
https://groups.io/g/BITX20/topic/bitx40_and_plj_6led_frequency/4330098?p=,,,20,0,0,0::recentpostdate%2Fsticky,,,20,2,0,4330098

Some of the respondents didn’t seem to understand the problem. Others hint that the ability to handle negative numbers was as some point in the code for the PLJ6 device, and may somehow be accessible, but no further info is provided.

I have already worked up a possible solution, but I’m interested in how you folks would approach this problem. Any thoughts or suggestions? I will reveal my solution in the days ahead.

My Current Rig: The Quarantine Hodgepodge

As I continue to Stay In The Shack, last week I was looking for something to do. This is what I came up with.

Left to right:
— Speaker
— Ramsey-kit QAMP20 modified for 40. I now have two MTP3055V MOSFETS in there.
— BITX40 Module with a solidified VFO from a Galaxy V (note the knob from a Drake 2B!)
— Power supply

It puts out about 15 watts SSB. I was bracing for attacks from the 40 meter waterfall police, but no, everyone said it sounds great. I had four very nice contacts yesterday. It was fun.

Still to do: Possibly a San Jian frequency counter to give some Juliano Blue glowing numerals for the frequency readout. This would be a step up from the Juliano Blue sticky note and corresponding piece of black electrical tape that currently serves as the frequency indicator.


Ryan Flowers’ Admirable Approach to the BITX40 Module

We must remember that Farhan designed the BITX transceivers — and especially the BITX40 Module — in the hope that these rigs would encourage hams to tinker, to modify, to change and to repair. When I read Ryan Flowers’ blog post, I thought that Farhan’s mission has been accomplished.

https://miscdotgeek.com/bitx40-rebuild-part-1-mistakes-planning-and-teardown/

I was also struck by how nice it is that Ryan has a sentimental attachment to this BITX40 module because it was a gift from his wife. That’s the kind of thing that gives a piece of electronic circuity soul.

Above we see Ryan’s module with many of the parts removed in the sections that he feels he messed up. This is obviously a good approach, but it reminded me of the nightmare I’ve had (and I am not the only one) where, in frustration, I take ALL the parts off a recalcitrant board.

Stick with it Ryan! You are on the right track. And it sounds to me like you WILL soon be homebrewing from scratch your own SSB transceiver.

A while back we built a blog with many nice mods for the BITX40 Module:

http://bitxhacks.blogspot.com/

Walter’s VFO

Main VFO board under plastic — buffer board off to the right

There is a lot of tribal knowledge in this short article by Walter KA4KXX. (The most recent issue of SPRAT has a picture of a SPRAT cover from more than 30 years ago, announcing an article by Walter. OM has been at this for quite a while.) Walter’s advice is similar to that of Doug DeMaw, especially on the air-core coil. FB Walter, thanks for sharing.

Regarding the last line in Walter’s article, please direct any complaints about drifting analog VFOs to Peter Juliano. He will be delighted to receive these complaints, and will promptly provide all correspondents with very succinct advice on how to overcome the instability.

My Way to a Low-Drift Analog VFO, by Walter KA4KXX


 I recently built a digital VFO (from a QRP Labs Kit) to see what everybody is talking about, and it has been quite handy for my first two-band homebrew transceiver, but by the time one adds the low pass filter, a low-level RF amplifier to boost the weak output, a 5 VDC regulator, and a hefty +12VDC power line filter to the beast to keep the digital noise out of the rest of the radio, for a single band project I still prefer a low-drift analog VFO.

My approach to minimizing drift is very simple and works well for a VFO range of 3 – 7.3 MHz, which is all that is needed for the 20 to 80 Meter bands, either direct conversion (adding a doubler for 20M) or single conversion with approximately a 10 MHz IF.

First, see my schematic (adapted from Small Wonder Labs 40+ transceiver, original BITX40 Analog VFO, and other sources) and wind an air core inductor with stout magnet wire such as 24 or 22 AWG. Use a thick, rigid plastic form of a diameter so that you need about 12 turns, and single coat with water-based sanding sealer, Q-dope, or similar. Use hot glue to mount the coil firmly to the single-sided circuit board, and build a cover of some type, especially if the radio is to ever be used outdoors.

Second, all the VFO capacitors (except power supply bypass) should initially be the modern C0G type, which can be obtained from Mouser (such as TDK FG28C0G1H681JNT06 or the like), which I trust more than those labeled NP0.

 Then, power up the VFO and tweak the coil, tuning arrangement, and range capacitor to get the frequency range you desire.

 Next, monitor the drift from a cold start to see how fast it is moving as it warms up, and whether it stabilizes nicely (my goal for SSB Phone use is less than 20 Hz drift during any 10 minute period) after 10 – 15 minutes maximum. If it does not stabilize to your satisfaction, then start substituting polystyrene caps for the C0G units one at a time until you are happy with the performance.

 [Also remember that a stable BFO is important as well, and if you use the BITX 40 crystal oscillator design, I recommend installing a dedicated 78L09 power line regulator.]

 If you build this VFO at the higher (7 MHz) frequency end, just change the inductor value to about 0.5 uH, with everything else about the same, but expect to do more tweaking to get stability, and the warm-up time may be closer to 15 minutes. After years of experimenting, this is what has worked for me. If it works for you, please send me an email (see my QRZ page) of thanks. If not, file a complaint with Soldersmoke.

SolderSmoke Podcast #216 Is Available: BITXs, Paesano, Paraset, ET2, Antuino, Mailbag

Bill’s uBITX with HB keys and the mic that used to be the podcast mic!

SolderSmoke Podcast #216 is available

21 December 2019

 HAPPY HOLIDAYS TO ALL!

http://soldersmoke.com/soldersmoke216.mp3

Pete’s Bench
Sprat Article
BITX 40 Fun
ZL2BMI Rig
Paraset. Three tubes! Almost an ET-3!

Bill’s Bench
ET-2 Adventure over, Rig on the wall
Final QSO count. 20 3 “random”
Last QSO with AA8OZ
Lessons learned: 100 mW not the problem. Crystal Control cramps your style.
N0WVA regen amazingly effective.
Tried for the Sunrise Net. Walter sent me some crystals.

On to the uBITX.
Accidentally wiped out calibration and BFO settings.
Had to do recalibration and reset BFO.
Learned a lot about the rig.
How they did CW and how they do it now. Shift TX? Or shift RX? Or just shift BFO on RX?
How all the signals end up as upper sideband. Only one BFO freq. Very cool.
TalentCell 12 V Lithium Ion 3 AmpHour battery. Size of a deck of cards.
Inspired by Peregrino — I ordered EFHW Tuner from QRP Guys.
Homebrew Straight Keys

Antuino upgrade
SMT soldering.
Back to Arduino Nano and the IDE.
A very cool tool.
Antuino filter analysis.
Version 6 of uBITX out.

The “Watt Meter” DC power meter. Very useful. 8 bucks. LINK:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-DC-combo-Meter-LCD-Watt-Power-Volt-Amp-RC-Battery-charging-Analyzer-M/152339793114?fbclid=IwAR0u9SlZi2Dm6zOJyZt4fDTu7w_pjBIEYD_FiNfLymxtQUbMjcNHjfB17P0

SPRAT, balloons and hardcore homebrew hydrogen.

MAILBAG
VK3HN’s AM receiver. I ordered 6kHz 455 kHz filters from Australia.
Dean’s MMM
Peter VK2EMU Hertz not hertz.
Ben KC9DLM LTSpice YouTube Videos
Steve Silverman Electroluminescent Receiver Kit
Lyndon N0LFX back to listening. FB OM
Steve M0KOV built a pill bottle variometer. Did you get the regen going?
Anthony VU3JVX FB HB uBitx.
Allison KB1GMX Great to hear from her

Leif WB9IWT — helped me trouble shoot my uBITX (BFO was low)

Mike EI0CL old buddy from Azores days. Recognized his voice on 20. Great QSO.

VU3JVX’s Beautiful Homebrew Scratch-built uBITX

When Farhan announced that BITX40 Module boards would no longer be produced, my first thought was that it is, of course, still possible to homebrew a BITX. Anthony VU3JVX proves that in his wonderful description of his uBITX scratch-built homebrew project. Anthony obviously learned a lot — perhaps the most important lesson for new homebrewers is what Anthony did when he couldn’t get the receiver to work: HE TOOK A BREAK and went back after a few days. That is very important.


I also liked very much the fact that Anthony did what Farhan did when the receiver came to life — he stopped building the transmitter and just listened to the receiver that he had built. FB OM.

And three cheers for Anthony’s XYL — she was very wise to suggest that he take on a project like this when he found himself out of work.

Anthony VU3JVX wrote:


I would like to share my journey of building ubitx from scratch, I would also like to dedicate this to Farhan (hope he will read this sometime) as he has always motivated to homebrew stuff.

I got my license ‘VU3JVX’ on March 2017. Passing the exam and getting on HF bands is still two different things. Yes, I started to transmit to local VHF repeater with cheap Chinese Bafong radio, I believe the most economical way to start the ham operator experience. However, I knew that I am missing something since I was not able to operate on HF bands.Coincidentally I saw that bitx40 became available as kit from HF Signals during the same time. I was happy to try it and that’s how I made my first HF rig. Then I came to know about the BITX20 forum and joined the same, one of the best thing I did after buying bitx40. I have learned a lot from all the great people caring and sharing information. I will try to contribute whatever way possible from my side in coming days.

I was already thinking of building bitx40 for other band (because the way Farhan Sir has drawn the schematic it becomes so tempting for DIY) and then ubitx happened and it changed everything. I started studying the ubitx circuit and collecting all the required components, even ordered the exact toroid from W8DIZ website (during my good days and travel to US) but I was not having enough time to put things together on the bench as I am by profession a computer network & security engineer. I was not sure what to do next, during this time my XYL suggested me that why don’t I focus on something which I always wanted to do. And that’s how my journey started to build the ubitx from scratch.


Honestly, I was not sure if this was the right time to start this project. So I started to work on building the receiver segment of ubitx only. I had my challenges during this time and at one point I thought I made a wrong choice of building ubitx, instead I should had tried the bitx40 circuit first. I was almost on the verge to pack up and shelf the project because I was not able to hear anything from the receiver itself forget about building the transmitter. Then took a break for few days and then started troubleshooting each segment one by one. Finally I found it after reading through the bitx20 forum that my Q70 to be defective then I also came to know that is it better to replace it with audio type transistor 2sc945.
I believe during this process I have read most of the content on bitx20 forum. Some name which repeatedly comes to my mind are Raj (vu2zap), Allison, Jerry and thanks to all other hams out there. I had all the version schematics but started my work based on V5 and wanted to get the best out of all the version so I kept the build approach modular and laying them almost like the schematic for easy troubleshooting (you can see those pic on my qrz page).

Next challenge was trying to be too good student and follow everything the master said (pun intended). I made a cocktail of 12 Mhz with 11.059 Mhz crystal filter (Farhan Sir I believe the schematic is still showing X7 as 12 Mhz) and after changing the X7 to 11.059 Mhz I was able to see the radio signal making it through the crystal filter, then came the next hurdle of fine tuning the USB and LSB and fiddling with the software for the right value. After the receiver started working I took a break from building the radio and started enjoying the receiver and checking all bands. One evening I narrowly missed Farhan ji on air but anyway I would not have been able to communicate with him since my ubitx transmitter was not ready.
After that day I thought of building the ubitx transmitter soon. I was quiet confident about the transmitter build by this time and thought it should be straight forward. Logically yes it should had been that way but I was so wrong. Following all the recommendation from the forum about harmonic issue and how to avoid them I started building the BPF. Then I started to work on the PA section then came tuning the IRF510 current (I call it “Bell the cat moment”) luckily I never blew any IRF510. However, the output watt on 40 M was hardly 2-3 Watts and other higher band less than 1 Watt. I knew something was wrong with those MOSFET but out of circuit the test look normal. I had some other stock from different source even those performed the same. Played around with different PA transformer settings and checking/tracing the RF signal. Everything looked normal till IRF510. Chances of fake IRF510 is less (as debated on the forum) as it is not an expensive RF part like RD16HHF1. Now I was confused, I had some spare new RD16HHF1 which I got online, which I was not very hopeful thinking that it might be fake. I thought of giving it a try (pin layout configuration was easy for me as I have taken the island cutting approach on single side copper board).

Voila ! I got a whopping 10+ Watt 40M, 5W on 20, 10W on 17M, 10W on 15M, 5W on 12M and 10M. Yes there are lot of fake IRF510 out there. Now it was time to test the homebrew rig on air, checked in at evening into All India Net and got 59 report and the net controller thought I am using commercial rig. Finally during these difficult time in my personal life I was able to smile and sleep well that day. The icing on the cake was installing the Nextion 3.5 display (If I remember correctly this is single most expensive component in the radio and thankfully it is optional).

Does that mean everything is 100% with my home brew ubitx ? Nope, I am still trying to figure out the feedback issue from the speaker during transmit. I traced the issue and found the audio leaking from emitter of Q6. I would like to mention that I tried all the audio circuit and finally settle for TDA2822 circuit. However, the issue is still there during transmit so I have made the audio circuit offline during transmit, I know this will impact my CW listening while transmitting when I upgrade my license . I have exhausted all solutions from Bitx20 forum but still no luck. I would be happy is someone can point me to the right direction. I would be also happy to share any information related to my build or the software settings/tuning, yes I like programming especially ‘C’ so I am comfortable with Arduino programs. I am thinking of building another PA module with IRF510, I personally feel IRF510 (I got the original finally) has made the home brewing so interesting.

Anthony VU3JVX


Follow-Up on Scratch-built BITX17 — Board Map and Video

In my last post I put up a time lapse GIF of my BITX 17 build from about six years ago. Above you can see my drawing explaining what each of the stages that you see popping up on the board were. More diagrams here:
https://soldersmoke.blogspot.com/2013/11/bitx-build-update-19-layout-vxo-bal-mod.html
And a lot more info on this build are available on this blog. Just use the search box for build updates (but be aware that this search will also bring up updates on later projects).

Above is a slightly out-of-focus video tour of the board.

I’m posting this stuff partly in reaction to the news that the BITX 40 module is no longer for sale. I hope these posts will serve as a reminder that it is quite possible to homebrew from scratch your own BITX transceiver. This is a fun and rewarding project. Three cheers for Farhan!

KG7SSB — Homebrew SSB in Tuscon — Learning from the BITX40 Module

On Sun, May 26, 2019 at 1:45 PM William R Meara wrote:
Dale:

I was talking to Jim W9UD on 20 SSB today. When I told him I was running a homebrew transceiver he mentioned that he talked to another guy who is on the air with homebrew SSB gear — you!

There are so few of us Dale. I felt compelled to send you an e-mail.
What are you running?
After several years on DSB, I started building separate SSB receivers and transmitters, mostly for 17. Lately I am running versions of the Indian BITX transceiver.
Please send info on your homebrew SSB projects.
Thanks,
Bill N2CQR

Hi Bill,

I have two radios that are completed to date. I started out building the BITX 40 transceiver from scratch and also a companion 60 watt solid state linear rf amplifier. Then I decided to construct the second transceiver for 20 meter using some of the BITX design concepts and mixed with the UBITX design for additional rf amplification. It too is amplified to about 25 watts output. The 20 meter rig is my favorite radio at this time but I am going to go a different direction on my next build. It’s presently just in the design stage but I’m thinking about using the MC1350 integrated circuits for the IF amplification and for the front end I may try using a FET rf amplifier. The beauty of the bitx design is the use of wide band amplifiers that don’t have a tendency to oscillate. But, the new design I’m working on will have more shielding between critical circuits and I will use a small amount of negative feedback in the high gain circuits. The reason for changing the radio to a higher impedance design is to simplify the design build. I will basically build a receiver that I can reverse the signal direction over to transmit using the same amplifiers and filters. This will cut in half the amount of circuit building however it will increase the switching circuit complication associated with this new design.


Today I’m beginning the build of a 100 watt rf linear amplifier design using the kit parts from China (minipa 70) amps. This provides the transformer components and circuit boards. I purchased two kits of parts and I have a large heatsink to build it on. I’m working on a current sensing circuit for protecting the final FETS. It will run 4 IRF530’s tied together with a splitter and combiner for the input and output matching transformers. It should produce at least 100 watts at 75/80 meters and maybe a little less on 40 meters but 20 meters it will drop off to about 60 or so watts.

I’m just having as much fun as a guy can have playing around with the homebrew radio’s and like you say there’s not many doing it these days. I love operating a radio that I built vs. running a factory made radio. I have two commercial rigs on my bench and a couple of Collins radios but the homebrew takes the lead.

Jim W9UD has become one of my ham friends this year. We end up talking every week or so on the air and keeping touch with local weather conditions.
Side Note:
I wanted to build a SSB radio since I was a young lad with a technician license in the early 60’s. SSB came into the picture many years after I was first licensed. Then move forward to 2015 my ham license had long ago expired during my time in the Vietnam war. I spent several weeks studying the tech, general and finally the extra class exam information and passed on through that adventure. So I decided it’s time to build my own radio from scratch. So I started to look online and in books and I still didn’t have the confidence to begin building. Then I ran across Farhams BITX 40 and I thought why not buy this radio and just use it as a model of how sideband circuits work. So I did just that and I got it working fine I took the radio and placed it on the test bench and began circuit analysis and signal level evaluation until it all made perfect sense. This is accomplished while transmitting so the levels can be seen on the oscilloscope. Just kill the voltage on the final stage of the bitx. I put a 1khz signal on the mic input. That was just about the only thing I used the bitx 40 rig for and I still keep it handy when I need information.

Good hearing from you I hope I haven’t over done this reply but I really enjoy talking about this subject.
73’s Bill…. keep up the building and good luck on your next radio.

Dale KG7SSB

———————–

And of course, Pete N6QW knows Dale and has been talking about SSB with him for some time…

VA3IAW’s BITX 40 Box. Ugly? I don’t think so.

Al VA3IAW thought he had a shot at the “Ugliest BITX 40” award, but I shattered his dream by declaring it a thing of beauty. He made it from PC board material and 1/4 inch angle brackets. That’s a paint stirrer supporting the mic element and the PTT switch. Al might want to use shielded cable for the mic if the waterfall policeman on 40 meters detect RF feedback and freak out.

Digital Pot

No, this is not some on-line mail order thing. Bruce KC1FSZ has done something that I find both amazing and horrifying: he using a “digital potentiometer” as the AF gain control in his BITX. Remember when pots were simple and pure, when they were just a metal wiper that ran across a crescent of carbon of increasing resistance? Well, those happy days are apparently behind us my friends. What now? Will we have endless discussions about where to find the driver for the 10k pot? Will Facebook or Amazon or Microsoft secretly seize control of the data on our AF gain, perhaps to sell us hearing aids? But enough of my ludism. Good going Bruce. AGC beckons.

Hi:

I’ve built a few BITX rigs from scratch now and I’m starting to move to a modular approach using fabricated PCBs to make it easier/faster to build/mix/match the stages. My audio amplifier module is based on the LM386. I know others have moved away from this chip, but it still works for me.

I’ve added one feature to my audio amp stage that opens up some good possibilities. Instead of the traditional potentiometer between the AF preamp and the LM386, I’ve inserted a digital potentiometer (MCP4131-103) that is controlled by three extra pins on the microcontroller. The digital pot lists for $0.81 on Mouser so it’s no more expensive than a physical pot and it’s way more versatile.

Why do this?

  • The module is quick to make if you’re building a lot of rigs.
  • AF gain can be controlled via the CAT port.
  • AGC control can be done in software. This enables all kinds of fancy AGC “attack” and “release” controls that can be seen in the docs for commercial rigs.
  • This is an enabling feature for remote ops, which is why I did this in the first place.
  • AF gain can be controlled using the same encoder (different mode) as is used to control frequency, etc. if you wanted to build a more compact rig.

The board is shown below. This is one of my first forays into KiCAD/PCBs/etc. so it’s probably not as “tight” as it could be. Also, I’m using through-hole components so it’s old-school building. But the board only costs $7 on OSHPark and it’s pretty quick to wire up. Anyone who wants to order one from them drop me a line and I’ll send you the link.

Schematic below.

73s,
Bruce KC1FSZ


BITX Night on 7277: First N6ORS and then Canadian BITX Builders

I was about an hour late for the Eastern time zone meet-up at 7 pm local on 7277 kHz Sunday night (my wife and I watch 60 Minutes at that hour). but I figured I could work some guys if I got on at 8 pm. Sure enough, I was called by Keith N6ORS on his MIN-X rig. I was on my QRO DIGI-TIA. It was great to catch up with Keith.

Then I got a call from VE3THR. Last year I’d talked to Tom when he was using his BITX40. This time he was on with his uBITX. FB. Tom’s club in Barrie, Ontario is obviously melting a lot of solder and having a lot of fun. Here are some pictures of their rigs.

HB2HB QSO with KC1FSZ and his Al Fresco Scratch-built BITX

I had some good luck on the ham bands last weekend. First, I was called by Bruce KC1FSZ — this time he was on his Al Fresco scratch-built BITX-on-a-board. FB. The next day, I called CQ on what seemed like an empty 17 meter band. I heard someone come back — it sounded like DX. I had to swing the Moxon a bit — oddly, I thought, to the south-east. FR5FC was calling me from Reunion Island. TRGHS.

Here’s a follow-up message from Bruce:

Hi Bill:


Great to catch up with you on 40m yesterday. I was using the Peppermint II which is a scratch-build of the BITX-40 for the most part, although I did my own digital VFO/BFO and made a few other modifications in order to be able to use it on 80m. It took about 8 months of noodling to get the thing to work, but it was a great learning experience.

As discussed, I’m working on a 24V power supply (LM723 + 2N3055) and a push-pull IRF510 final so that I can get some more power.

I got a few more Williams-Sonoma Peppermint Bark tins off of EBay so I’m ready to start boxing things up as soon as the linear is working.

73s,

Bruce KC1FSZ

Amazing Homebrew/Boatanchors QSOs on 40 –Six solder melters in a row!

Al W8VR
After a day of happy tinkering with the Direct Conversion receiver I’ve been working on, I turned off the soldering iron and got on 40 meter SSB with my BITX Digi-Tia.

First — Steve W4IJ came back to my CQ. Steve is a boatanchor enthusiast and has written for Electric Radio magazine. FB.

W4IJ Boatanchors

When Steve signed off, I got into a contact with Pete W8NBO. We had spoken before and he had told me of a homebrew transmitter he’d built as a kid. This time I asked for details: It was a 6AG7 oscillator to a 6L6 amplifier. He ran it with an S38 (brave man!). He described what must have been a very painful effort to hack (literally) the needed holes in the transmitter chassis using just a spike, a hammer and a file. I told him this brought back my memories of similarly painful chassis work (mine was for a power supply for a Heath HW-32A).

At this point we were joined by Arnie, W2HDI. Arnie’s rig is in Stowe Vermont, but he was running it remote from the South of France where he and his wife were celebrating their 50th wedding anniversary. Arnie shared with us memories of similar chassis pain — his were related to an external modulator that he built for a DX-40. I think he said that all he had was a hole punch and a file. Oh, the humanity!

Then Al W8VR joined the conversation. Al said that he’s been in the game so long that his early rigs were built using cigar boxes as chassis. I pointed to a connection: I noted that my BITX rigs are enclosed in what could be considered cigar boxes. Al’s QRZ page picture has a magnificent AM rack rig that he said was actually built twice. There is also an HRO-60 in the picture. FB. Check it all out at Al’s web site. Click on the mic for the write ups, the key for the pictures. http://www.w8vr.org/

Then Dennis K0EOO called in. Holy Cow! Dennis and I spoke not long ago. You may recall my enthusiastic write up of his beautiful 1974 SSB rig:
http://soldersmoke.blogspot.com/2017/08/k0eoo-homebrew-ssb-in-1974.html
and
http://soldersmoke.blogspot.com/2017/08/more-on-k0eoos-amazing-homebrew-ssb-rig.html

This was almost too much. Rarely will you spontaneously come across so many hams who have melted so much solder. FB.

Icing on the cake: When I returned to the bench, I fired up the DC receiver and heard Mike KN4EAR talking about his BITX40. I switched to the Digi-Tia and gave Mike a call. He reports making many contacts with his rig. FB.

TRGHS.