Peter Parker’s Knobless Wonder Minimalist SSB Rig

Oh man, Peter Parker has done it again! As he did with the Beach 40, he has come up with a circuit that will attract a lot of attention. It is a single frequency SSB transceiver with no knobs (or windows, or menus!)

Peter Marks recently had breakfast in Melbourne with VK3YE:
http://blog.marxy.org/2013/05/melbourne-meetup-with-homebrew-legend.html
There are some great pictures of the new rig, and the Beach 40.

Here’s the message from VK3YE (to the Minimalist Radio Group) that may
someday be seen as the start of the Knobless Revolution:

Some might reckon that SSB is inevitably too complex to be in the minimalist
class, but I beg to disagree.

I reckon you could build a whole SSB transceiver in 2 days of solid work. I
took a day to build what will be described below up to the stage where it

was receiving & producing a low level SSB on Tx.

Take this recipe:

1. Build the back end of the BitX http://www.phonestack.com/farhan/bitx.html
That is everything to the right of (and including) the Q2 & Q12 stages.

2. Use cheaply available 7.159 MHz crystals in the crystal filter and
carrier oscillator. Keep filter capacitor values the same. Remove L3 in the
carrier oscillator circuit. Use a slightly bigger trimmer in the carrier
oscillator (say up to 50 pF) and wire in series with crystal. Align trimmer
so carrier freq is 7160 kHz.

3. Build a power amplifier stage / relay / LPF as per the Beach 40. Just
the last 2 stages (using BD139s) should be enough. Output maybe 2w.

The result is a 10 transistor / 1 IC SSB transceiver on 7160 kHz. It’s
crystal controlled but at least during the day 2 watts to a good antenna
should be enough for people to hear and reply to your CQ calls up to 800 –
1000 km away. Of course you could go a bit more minimalist and remove the
LM386, substituting 1 transistor instead (as per the original Beach 40)
which is what I did.

The main thing that’s odd is it has no knobs – no tuning, RIT, volume, RF
gain etc. Just sockets – for mic, phones, antenna and power to feed it what
it needs (Rx RF, Tx audio, DC power) and give what you want (Rx audio and Tx
RF).

It is philosophically different to using any other transceiver. You either
accept what the radio dishes up (frequency, AF gain, mic gain etc) or you
don’t. On or off – there is no other state. Take it or leave it. Like a
cat this is a radio that lives on its own terms.

Those used to fiddling with adjustments will find the ‘knobless wonder’
transceiver causes them to be at a loose end. Those so afflicted will smoke
more, bite their nails more or eat junk food more. Sometimes elegant
simplicity in radio can be a health hazard – maybe knobless rigs should
carry health warnings.

On the other hand, and in my view this outweighs the above, there is the
aesthetic satisfaction that comes from using a rig that cannot be made any
simpler. Especially if it’s a mode, like SSB, that’s widely thought
constructionally complex. Plus it takes little in return – the power
consumption will be a fraction of what a commercial rig will demand.

73, Peter VK3YE
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How to Get Ready to Build a BITX-20

Continuing with our workshop inspiration theme, I spotted this in the BITX-20 mailing list this morning. The response is from Farhan:

blake,

i would suggest a different route. a long and winding one, that will
finally lead to a bitx.

the idea is to learn. you do this by understanding what you build and
building what you understand. by ‘understand’, i specifically mean, being
able to measure. here is what i suggest, buy yourself a bunch of 2N3904s
from the local radio shack and some resistors and caps. then build this :

http://www.phonestack.com/farhan/testosc.gif

this is an oscillator. if you plug a coil between the open ends, it will
become a vfo, if u plug a crystal, it becomes a crystal oscillator. you can
use your frequency oscillator to check the frequency it is oscillating at,
etc.

with this, you would have mastered the first of the three blocks that make
up almost every radio circuit. but next, you must make another test
instrument. a power meter. most of us ham start out with a simple RF probe.
while that was fine and dandy for its day, now we can do much much better.
we can make a very accurate power meter that enable you to measure things
as finely as anybody in this business. W7ZOI has designed a super simple
power meter. it is available as a kit.
read about the power meter here :
http://www.kangaus.com/Documentation%20files/Power%20Meter%20Documentation%20May%202011.pdf
you can purchase the kit at www.kangaus.com
(I have no business interest with kanga or any other kit manufacturer)

with the power meter in place, you can now measure the power levels coming
out of any circuit with great accuracy.

now, you can build a single stage feedback amplifer (there are six of them
used in the bitx) on a copper clad board. using the test oscillator as an
input, you can measure how much gain the amplifer has (measure the
oscillator output, then connect the oscillator to the amp and ,measure the
amp output. the, amp output – oscillator output = amp gain).

of course, while building both these blocks, you will discover what
voltages to expect at which junction of components in both these blocks.

next, you can build a step attenuator. which is a really simple thing and
of immense value in the home lab. here is a design
http://www.arrl.org/files/file/Technology/tis/info/pdf/9506033.pdf
or you can now buy it in a kit form from
http://www.qrpkits.com/attenuator.html

finally, you can build a simple signal generator like this :
http://www.phonestack.com/farhan/siggen.html . this will allow you change
frequencies and measure what a circuit does at different frequencies. you
can use this to test how the filters are doing and get them to ‘spot’ where
you want them to.

so, there it is, a signal generator, a power meter, step attenuator, test
oscillator. four, very simple test instruments that you can build
yourself. they will give you one helluva education in radio. and within
weeks, you will understand and start building on your own!!

– farhan


> Quoting bfabman :
>
> Hello Everyone, I have been watching the group for a few months now
> with interest. I have no electronic experience to speak of, but I have
> a burning desire to make one of these, and I am wondering what all of
> you think of someone like myself building one as my first real radio
> project, to be used for qrp mountain topping. I don’t have any
> electronic test equipment for the final alignment, other than a
> standard DIG vom meter. (I am willing to buy some equipment if
> necessary) I think that this would be an awesome winter project just
> don’t know if it would be over my head. If I got it all built, could I
> actually get it aligned and working properly. I did make a Norcal
> frequency counter project last year and it turned out very well. Thanks
> for your opinions before I spend the money. Blake
>
> Paul Daulton K5WMS
> beacon WMS 185.302 khz qrss30/slow 24/7
> Jacksonville,Ar 72076
> em34wu

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F8VOA’s BITX-20 (and FB Workbench)

A beautiful rig on a really nice workbench! http://www.qsl.net/f8voa/
Don’t miss the details of the BITX construction. You have to click the little orange arrows along the right of the page: http://www.qsl.net/f8voa/Bitx%20presentation.html

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A BITX-20 Emerges from the SolderSmoke

It’s not mine — I haven’t started yet. But Robert sent us this picture and progress report on his BITX-20 project. (Nice Tek scope in the background. Is that a 465?)
—————————
Dear Mr. Meara,
Thank you for sharing your thoughts and experiences in
SolderSmoke. I found your book (kindle version), to be entertaining and
inspirational. The amateur radio bug bit me hard early this year, earned
my tech & general in January, extra in February. Asking myself “Where
has this wonderful hobby been all my life”?
Especially want you to know that because of the reference of the
Bitx20 in your book, I built one (kit from India), and made my very
first hf contact using a homebrew rig and homebrew dipole antenna. The
thrill was absolutely fantastic! Attached is a picture of my bitx20
moments after making my very first hf contact ever between northern
Alabama (my QTH), and the Calgary Alberta radio club about 2k miles
away.
Please take some credit for being part of the inspiration!
Note, my bitx20 is now packaged and portable, next project will
is a QRP antenna tuner, and buying a commercial “fancy” HF transceiver.
Thanks again!
Sincerely,
Robert Conklin

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Update from the QRP Ranch

Bill,
Really enjoyed SolderSmoke 143, great job as always.
I wanted to fill you in on the happenings at the WA6ARA QRP Ranch. A bunch of us are doing a kit build. We meet at the QRP Ranch Man Cave for a few hours of building several times a week. Several of us are building the 40 meter SSB rig that won the homebrew challenge a couple years ago and there are a couple BTX20s and 17 meter rigs being built as well. I’d like to say they are from scratch but alas, we are building them from Hendrick’s QRP kits. The first one has been completed, a BTX17, by a 15 year old Extra Class ham in about 3 days. BTW – he already had WAS and DXCC. The next project is the W6JL 50 watt amplifier that won the amplifier homebrew challenge. I am building both the 40 meter and the BTX17 rigs. The 40 meter rig, plus amp is going in a ammo can and then in the jeep for back country emergency use. I’ve enclosed a couple of photos, including the required chocolate chip cookies to keep the gang going and the solar oven to cook them in.


Mike Herr
WA6ARA
DM-15dp
Home of The QRP Ranch

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Words of Wisdom from Farhan

I read the mail of the BITX20 group. Here is some good advice from Farhan:

I have often seen builders finishing an entire build, then powering it
up to face the frustration of a dead circuit. I suspect that the
trouble is with our kit building mind set. As a kit builder, we assume
that if it has worked well for a few hundred others, there is no
reason for it to not work for us. But the truth is more sobering …
Of the hundred odd components, any of them could get swapped by
another, or a bad solder, wrong polarity, etc. can all conspire to
thwart your attempts. The bitx manuals are really some of the best
produced in the recent years and yet, even with leonard’s videos,
troubleshooting kits is a challenge.
I am proposing a more elaborate, slower but surer approach to building the bitx.

It is as follows: build it one stage at a time, use one stage to test
the next. For instance, one could start with the bfo first. Just a
single transistor with the crystal. Then use an RF probe to check the
rf output. If there is no output, then sort that out before proceeding
to the next stage. With the addition of the buffer amp, the output
should go up. Then one could proceed to the audio amp. Injecting audio
from your mp3 player or computer could check that it works. Next,
replace the audio source with the mic amp, this tests the mic amp.
Now, if you add the two diode modulator, you should be able to receive
the dsb at 10 MHz on your HF transceiver.

This approach tests each stage individually and in isolation before
proceeding to the next. It also provides wholesome education to the
builder. In software industry, it is called a ‘test driven
development’ method of developing software.

In the end, this approach is no slower than the current approach,
except that surprises are not kept for the last.

I am sure that some of us can come out with a sequence of stages to
build where each stage is tested using the previous stage.

As much as bitx is about building it cheap, it is also about learning
your radio from inside. Bitx is also education on the cheap, don’t
give up that opportunity.

– farhan VU2ESE

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Hard Core! Wisdom and Ideas on Toroids

Gerard ZS5AAC

This morning the BITX20 mailing list has an interesting discussion of toroidal cores. I especially like Gerard’s use of the cores from old CFL bulbs. Farhan wraps it up with a great explanation of why we use ferrite cores in broadband transformers:
——————————
Over the years I built quite a few BITX’s. In the beginning I used the
toroids salvaged from CFL lamps. These worked quite well for the mixer
coils. For the filter coils I used 6mm bakelite slug tuned coils that were
stripped from old PYE radios. Wonder if anybody else experimented
along the same lines. I build my BITX’s Manhattan style and they work from the start with few minor tunings. Happy BITX’ing, Gerard, ZS5AAC.
—————————————
Bob
The purists may attack us on this, but what you propose is very
possible. I have been using a wooden-core toroid for several years as part of an antenna tuner.

http://qrp.webhop.net/Pictures/Webcam-1293651325.jpeg

http://qrp.webhop.net/Pictures/Webcam-1295140555.jpeg

I’m also using small plastic and wooden beads as toroid cores for
several other projects. Half inch long sections cut from thick-wall (schedule-40 or schedule-80) PVC pipe also makes good toroidal forms. Beauty of using non-metallic cores is that the core can be split to allow winding wire through the slot without having to thread it through the hole.

http://qrp.webhop.net/Pictures/Webcam-1289957121.jpeg = 1.4 uh

Bending an inductor back on itself in toroidal form concentrates the
magnetic field in the center, whether the core is metallic or non-metallic. This gives you similar self-shielding properties when using either type core material.

With non-metallic cores you no longer have to worry about core saturation, so running high current finals is not a problem.

Key to doing this is being able to measure inductance of 5 turns, 10 turns,
and 20 turns, so you can calculate and plot the effective AL of your wooden core toroids. Once you know this value you can make up a chart to tell how many turns are required for a specific inductance.

Twisting wires together to make a transmission-line for bifilar or
trifilar windings is interesting because the impedance of that transmission line might affect performance of your transformer. It may require a bit of experimentation with an SWR bridge to tell when you have the best balance between twist pitch, wire diameter, and insulation thickness.
Arv – K7HKL
———————————————

Robert, Arv,
There are two types of coils used in the bitx – the broadband
transformers and the RF coils in the bandpass filter and oscillators.
You could easily substitute the rf and vfo/bfo coils with just about
any kind of coil – as long as you are hitting the same inductance and
Q. But there is a catch : a few years ago, I finally got down to
measuring the Q of the nylon tap washers that I had originally used.
The q was quite modest at 70. Wes made independent measurements with similar results (his paper is on www.w7zoi.net under technical stuff). In short, for good performance use good old air coils wound on a
cylindrical formers if you don’t use toroids.

About the broadband transformers. These need a material that has very
low loss, very high permeability. The reasoning is like this :
1. We need an transformer’s inductance such that the reactance is
at least 200 ohms at the lowest frequency. This puts the inductance at
around 30uH at 4MHz.
2. If we achieve 30uH through lots of turns (say 100), each turn will
exhibit capacitance with it’s neighbor and the large number of turns
will add up the capacitance so that the coil will provide enough
self-capacitance to resonate at an unintended frequency in HF leading
to pretty bad mixer performance.
3. The only way out would be to achieve the required reactance with
lower number of turns. This means using ferrites.
– farhan VU2ESE

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Homebrew SSB Portable from Australia

Peter Parker, VK3YE, is one of the true gurus of QRP phone. When I first started building DSB and later SSB rigs, I frequently found inspiration and ideas in Peter’s articles and web sites. This morning I came across this amazing video, produced just days ago, showing Peter and his new SSB transceiver in operation from a beautiful Australian beach. The rig is a 40 meter version of Farhan’s BITX-20. (I really like the frequency dial.)

Peter describes his rig this way:

It’s made from scratch, ugly style, with 99% being from the original design.
It covers 7 to 7.2 MHz, using a 9.05 MHz IF and a 2 MHz VFO.
I used a different microphone amplifier (I got more and clearer output than
the original with my electret mic) and a BD139 driver transistor.
The PA circuitry is also slightly different.
It’s been about my easiest and most trouble-free transceiver project to
date. Performance is excellent and a tribute to Ashhar. The furthest distance so
far was a 5/6 report from ZL (about 2000 – 3000km away).

The grand finale of the video is a four-way contact with homebrew rigs in use at all four stations. Excellent. Thanks a lot Peter.

Here is Peter’s web site: http://home.alphalink.com.au/~parkerp/

Our book: “SolderSmoke — Global Adventures in Wireless Electronics”http://soldersmoke.com/book.htmOur coffee mugs, T-Shirts, bumper stickers: http://www.cafepress.com/SolderSmokeOur Book Store: http://astore.amazon.com/contracross-20

QRP Quarterly — Winter 2010

Lots of great stuff in the latest edition of QQ from QRP ARCI:

Mike Czuhajewski’s “Idea Exchange” column has been sending out great ideas for many years now. In this edition he opens with a piece from Wes, W7ZOI, that originally appeared on the EMRFD mailing list. It deals with diode ring mixers, specifically the power requirements for the local oscillator. What do they really mean when they specify 7 dBm? Wes explains: “If we say that the LO power is +7 dBm, what this really means is that a signal generator is attached to a power meter or spectrum analyzer and adjusted to deliver +7 dBm at the desired frequency to the 50 ohm instrument. Once the power is set, the cable is disconnected and reattached to the mixer.” I’d always wondered about how to measure that. Thanks Mike! Thanks Wes!

Preston Douglas, WJ2V, has a nice article on our latest craze: WSPR. Preston also discusses SDR radios — his encouraging comments may help me get out of my current luddite curmudgeon rut. Preston mentions recent efforts to use a BITX-20 for WSPR and concludes that this would be “a tall order for any analog rig.” This comment lessened my feelings of inadequacy about my SDR SMT problems, because I recently used my ancient Drake 2-B to receive WSPR sigs (see earlier blog entry). Luddites Rule! But Preston is right — it’s not easy! But — at least for a little while, before drift takes you out of the band — it can be done.

Ward Harriman, AE6TY, writes of a “homebrew” SDR project. In his opening paragraph, he tells us what the term “homebrew” means to him: “homebrew design, homebrew assembly, homebrew programming, homebrew in a wide range of disciplines both familiar and untried.” That’s pretty hardcore! FB Ward!

Jim Osburn, WD9EYB, has a nice article on “circuit stickers” and how they can be used to simplify project construction using a variety of circuit boards and breadboards. I really liked Jim’s description of old Electronics Illustrated projects in which they pasted a diagram to a wood base and then put finishing nails at specified points. Components were then soldered to the finishing nails. When the thing works, you can say you “really nailed it!” (Sorry!) Cool technique.

Thanks to the folks at QRP ARCI for another inspiring edition of their wonderful magazine. If you are not a member, you are missing a lot. Sign up for the club and the magazine here:
http://www.qrparci.org/

Links from #111: W7ZOI, VU3ICQ, AA1TJ

Here is the excellent discussion of bi-directional amps I mentioned. From the web site of W7ZOI:
http://w7zoi.net/Bidirectional%20Matched%20Amplifier.pdf

Here is Farhan’s new JBOT 5 watt final amplifier:
http://www.phonestack.com/farhan/jbot.html

Here is the mysterious (and perhaps diabolical) Xtaflex from AA1TJ (the first rig EVER to promise “buns of steel.”)
http://mjrainey.googlepages.com/xtaflex